Sunday, May 11, 2014

HSF '14 Challenge #9-Black and White

Happy Mothers' Day!!! In honor of my own dear Mama's favorite item in my Historical Wardrobe-the Caraco Jacket below-I am posting my HSF Challenge #9 entry today :)



Ta-Da! My first ever full Georgian ensemble!!! I've been dreaming of this day since I was 10 years old. If you've been reading my blog for a while (or even a very short time) you've probably guessed that I am a history nerd. You would be correct! I've always loved books and films about history or set in historical times. I read all of the historical American Girl books when I was 8, 9 and 10 but never had much interest in the modern dolls or their stories. What intrigued little McKenna most, poring over the brightly colored catalogues, was the costumes! Felicity's (1774) were my favorite. The gloriously embroidered gowns and aprons, wee hats and fans called to my little heart and, though I didn't know it yet, would set the stage for my historical costuming journey that began several years later. When my Mom and my Grandmom took me by the hand and taught me how to sew.


What I present to you for my favorite HSF challenge so far is a black brocade Caraco Jacket, white Petticoat and Bergére hat decorated in white. As soon as I finished my stays, I wanted to go for something big and significant for my Georgian wardrobe. I already had a chemise, the stays, a fichu and an under-petticoat (for volume) and was ready to grace my unmentionables with a proper ensemble. So, without delay, I turned to Janet Arnolds' "Patterns of Fashion 1: 1660-1860" and selected the Caraco Jacket (it's on page 22, I believe). Out came my gridded cutting mat, swedish tracing paper, a few rulers and a fat pencil. After scaling up the initial pattern from the book, whipping up a toile, doing a fitting (no easy task when it's just you with no mirror) and adjusting the pattern pieces, I was ready to cut out the actual jacket from my fashion fabric. Honestly, it's so worth it! Don't cut into your fashion material until you're absolutely sure that the garmet fits! Toiles are indespensible to any seamstress!!!



In my opinion, the best part of historical sewing is hand-stitching. After doing all the inside seams with my machine, it's nice to find a comfy place with a cup of tea to hand-sew and re-watch favorite shows like "North and South" and "Wives and Daughters". I tacked the box pleats in place, slip-stitched the hem and the neckline and finally tediously whip-stitched 32 individual hooks and eyes over 2 episodes of "The Paradise". I'm definitely going to use this pattern again! And I'm thinking of doing a tutorial with instructions on how to assemble the pattern. What do you think?




Generally, a Caraco is a working woman's coat but making this version out of black brocade turned it into more of a Sunday morning Church service ensemble. It's like my Mother as a garment. Designed to be functional and productive but perfectly beautiful and elegant. My Mama has always placed an emphasis on looking your best, even when it's just your family around to see it. 








 The Bergére is made of an old straw hat I had on hand. I used The Dreamstress' method for turning an old straw hat into a Bergére (see the tutorial HERE). I decorated it with white lace, white paper flowers (found at Michael's on sale) and a white satin ribbon. I have dreamed of having a Bergére of my own since I was very small. I, being the hat connoisseur that I am, think it's the most elegant and tasteful hat design I have come across! It trumps the cloche, in my opinion, and I think very highly of that hat! 



I'm more than pleased with how this jacket turned out and love wearing it! It's such an amazing feeling to have a remnant of history to wear and have on hand. You never know when you'll need a Georgian Caraco Jacket! 






The Facts...
The Challenge: #9-Black and White
Fabric: 3 yds. Black Brocade, 2 yds. White Cotton
Pattern: Janet Arnolds' 1775-85 Caraco Jacket from "Patterns of Fashion 1". No Pattern for Petticoat
Year: 1775-85
Notions: Thread, Hooks and Eyes, Bias Tape
How historically accurate is it?: 90%
Hours to complete: 10-12?
First worn: For Photoshoot 
Total cost: About $15; that was all in the petticoat

8 comments:

Mandi Grace said...

I am totally struck by your beauty! Especially in the fourth picture from the bottom. I saw that and was just...oh wow. Gorgeous! :)

PS Can't wait for you to get here!
-Amanda

McKenna said...

Aaaawww!!! Thanks, Amanda! That's soooo sweet. I can't wait either :D We can have blogging parties together!

Mrs. Rosen said...

Amanda, That was the picture that I was taken with as well! I held it up to her brothers and said, "Isn't your sister beautiful?!" It makes me wonder...what was she thinking about? :)
McKenna thank you for the lovely dedication! You are an inspiration to everyone who knows you!! Love you so much!!

Paige said...

Beautiful, beautiful work! :) You looks so lovely and Georgian.
Oh, I used to pore over AG costumes too!

ireland rhea said...

You have talent, McKenna! I have hopes to be a proficient seamstress one day... right now I can't even sew a button. Really great job.

Ireland
http://irelandrhea.blogspot.com/

Tara Janelle said...

Looks lovely!

Hana - Marmota said...

I love bergéres, too! And as much as I love my cloche, I really want to make myself a bergére. ;-) (After all, the cloche is felt and the bergére will be straw, so they won't be competing!)

It's a beautiful jacket. I love the way you explain it, as a practical but pretty garment - it certainly does look to fill the part.
And congratulations on your first finished ensemble!

McKenna said...

You guys are so kind!!! Thanks for the encouragement :D It was so satisfying to have my first full Georgian ensemble completed. More to come, soon :) Thanks again for all your thoughtful comments!