HSF Challenge #10-Art

I was so nervous about this challenge! I scoured Pinterest and looked everywhere for an acceptable gown that I could replicate. I finally decided on this portrait of young Martha Washington. It's a modern painting by Michael Deas that imagines what she would look like when she was young. Originally, the plan was to make the gown for myself but when I went to lay out the pattern, I found that I was about a yard short of the purple satin fabric! *cue sad violin* I related my woes to my Mama and she suggested I make it instead for my little sisters! I cheered right up and got to work!

This is Mandee; #7 of our 8 children and she's 4 years old. I don't think I need to say anything in praise of her beauty because the pictures speak for me. She looks exactly like my mom did when she was 4! She also quite a character. You can see in the pictures below that she has a four year-old attitude. While she's sweet most of the time, she was having a moment when it came time to take pictures of her "princess dress", as she calls it.

This was such a fun project and I hadn't made anything for Mandee since February. I'm also halfway done with Mirial's (8) matching gown :)

I did finish the gown by Sunday but haven't got the pictures up until now. I wasn't going for complete historical accuracy here-I was going for maximum play-ability with ease of movement. I used a basic Simplicity pattern and dressed it up. Easy Peasy. And she loves it!

The Facts...

The Challenge: #10-Art

Fabric: 1 1/2 Yds. Purple Satin, 1 Yd. Gold Taffeta

Pattern: Andrea Schewe's Simplicity 3725

Year: 1750s-ish

Notions: Thread, Zipper, Elastic, Ribbon, Lace

How historically accurate is it?: Maybe 75%

Hours to complete: 4-5

First worn: For Photoshoot 

Total cost: It comes out to somewhere around $10-15

HSF '14: Challenge #5-Bodice

I'm sure rumors have been spreading, but I did, in fact, finish HSF Challenge #4, though it was late and completely different than the original plan :P Yeah, it was kind of a disaster. I had planned on making, at the very least, a chemise and a pair of Georgian stays but I made my stays all wrong and didn't even get to the chemise at all. Soooo, I just ended up replacing the straps on a vintage 1930s cotton slip I had in the ole' mending mountain, a day late and didn't end up posting about it at all. Thus, my plans to create a 1760s bodice and begin building my Georgian wardrobe completely fell apart...

I went onto the fabulous HSF Facebook page and asked my fellow HSF-ers if they knew of a good place to get 1930s patterns. I got overwhelming responses and found some incredible pattern suppliers that I had never heard of! But I ended up buying from Etsy (which I didn't expect, at all). Enter "Mrs. Depew" and her fabulous Etsy shop. Her beautiful French 1930s draft-at-home blouse pattern was exactly what I was looking for! And it was nicely priced, too.

Mrs. Depew's patterns seem extremely confusing at first. The French method of drafting in the 1930s that the pattern uses seemed, at first glance, to be cruel and unusual, but once I got the hang of it, everything made sense. It's quite ingenious, actually.

I constructed a toile first and foremost. That would be the biggest tip I would give to anyone using Mrs. Depew's patterns. Human error accounts for most of the mistakes I made (it was only my first experience with the system) and I'm so glad that I made a mock-up first. That was made of red calico with tiny white polka-dots. I trimmed it with red gingham ribbon. I did finish it completely but it's not my favorite. Marley took some pictures for me but I modeled it with a khaki skirt that is now too big for me (which is both exciting and annoying because now I have to alter it). Also, the shoulders ended up being way too wide and since the back was shorter than the front, I decided to chop the front even and add a waistband. The waistband was too long and small so it really doesn't fit very well right now and it's certainly not flattering so I'll only include one small picture below for the curious ones.

I didn't include the crossing straps

This blouse is one of the first items I've made that I am absolutely in love with! The fit is perfect and I feel so elegant and ladylike in it. I made it out of a $2 vintage, pleated skirt I thrifted. I couldn't even believe that I got almost 2 yards out of it! But I barely had a single scrap left. Use the whole buffalo, says I! 

I did make a few modifications to the pattern. After I had the sleeves basted on, I decided that I wanted the shoulder to be narrower to accomodate my narrowish shoulders. The predominating look of the 1930s was wide shoulders (usually padded), a narrow waist and an overall elongated, graceful figure. I didn't want to lose that essence with the shoulders but I didn't want to look goofy and clownish either. So, I let the drop-shoulder remain but dialed it back a few notches :)

The only other problem I ran into was that again, the back ended up being shorter than the front. I agonized over this problem longer than I should have, but eventually decided to create this little peplum to make up for the 3" difference. And I love the result! Way better than just a plain old straight seam!!! And, instead of drafting a sleeve band, I did a single box pleat and just turned the hem under, so it's still puffy.

In the end, I was so excited, I almost squealed! I love the fitted almost-princess seams that I have dubbed "diamond-seams", because the shape they create is a diamond, in essence. And the crossed bands in the front add such a nice touch of elegance to an otherwise simple and plain design.

I also made the gray skirt, but that was a month or two ago and not challenge-specific.

 The Challenge: #5-Bodice

Fabric: 2 Yards (give or take) Knit Rayon?

Pattern: Mrs. Depew 1049

Year: 1933

Notions: Thread

How historically accurate is it?: 100%!

Hours to complete: 3 or 4ish

First worn: Today's Photoshoot

Total cost: $2 for the skirt and $7.50 for the pattern=$9.50

Crossies!!! ;)

I hope you enjoy it as much as I do! Have a lovely evening!!!

Book Review: "Ellen" by Heidi Peterson

“As the young wife of a sea captain, Ellen lives cheerfully and faithfully. Then tragedy strikes and all that she has–and is–is put through testing fire. Bound up with her story is that of Pierre–an urchin off the streets of a far-distant city shipping out on a great adventure–and also that of his captain–a man seeking to snatch safety for his men whatever the cost to himself.”

Ellen is the newest addition to my library and I am proud to place it among my beloved family of books. Just like the members of a family, all books have different personalities. Different stories; lives of their own. I don't judge books by covers. If I did, my dilapidated copies of Little Women and An Old Fashioned Boy might not have made it to the place of honor they hold on my shelves. On the outset, Ellen might seem like just another shoddy attempt to remake Jane Austen but it most certainly isn't. 

 An instant classic, this skillfully crafted story of a young woman living in 19th Century England, captured my heart and encouraged my Spirit. I have read "Christian" books that tell an otherwise secular story and slap a few Bible verses and some nice sayings on the top like an afterthought. Refreshingly, Ellen starts with sound Biblical principles and builds a story to support it. 

I have little to gripe about. I'm no Simon Cowell but I will speak the truth, though I haven't much of anything ill to say. The main flaw I found with the story is that the principal characters seemed a bit too perfect. Thus, the main flaw is no flaws. Though the main characters are relatable and were created, I think, with the intent to be an example of excellence, only one of them had any of his personal faults exposed and he was a child in need of guidance. Also, though the book stands on the legs of a solid story, I felt that some of the details were not expounded upon as they had the potential to be. 

However, a book should not be defined by its faults. I think that, like a food critic, though the plating gets points, the flavor of the dish is what should be the focus. The flavor (the plot) of this dish (book) is delicious, nourishing and satisfying, though the plating (minor details) could have been improved. I hope that made sense. Overall, Ellen is a charming, encouraging and inspiring story. I recommend it for girls ages 12 and above, as it deals with some mature concepts like grief, pregnancy and deprivation but it serves as a lovely introduction to antiquated language as well. I hope that you snatch up an opportunity to read this book! I know I'm so glad that I did.

Heidi Peterson is a daughter and sister living at home with her family in the American mid-west. As such-and among other things-she enjoys gardening, photography, fiddling, ethnic cookery, history, literature and word craftsmanship. Visit her website at http://ladyofanorien.blogspot.com/.

HSF '14 Challenge #3-PINK

Sorry this is a bit late in the day, but better late than never I suppose...this is my peachy-pink 1940s Easter dress. That means, I have plans to wear it on Easter! 

The pictures explain it better than I could but here's the gist...I can't figure out exactly what type of fabric it is (I'll have to ask Grandma when she visits next) but it drapes beautifully and acts like linen but doesn't feel like it :P

I went all-out and made a complete toile out of ugly pink broadcloth yuk and then ripped it apart and marked it and used it as the pattern for my expensive pink fabric that I was sweating bullets about cutting up. I love the neckline and the cut of the bodice all the way around! I'll be using this pattern again for sure. I promise I'll reference it tomorrow after I, you know, sleep. (See update below)

Neckline detail. Sorry it's blurryish.

Waistline detail.

Back neckline.

Back and sleeve.

Back hem detail.

The Challenge: #3-Pink

Fabric: White-Flowered Pink Drapey Cotton/Linen

Pattern: Simplicity 0970 

Year: 1943

Notions: Thread, 1 Button

How historically accurate is it?: 100%

Hours to complete: 5-6

First worn: For the Photoshoot

Total cost: 2 1/2 Yards Fabric-$17.50 (I splurged), Pattern-$10.50. Total: $38.00...wow, after adding that up, I just realized that this is more than I've ever spent on any item of clothing ever!

HSF 2014 Challenge #1: Make-Do and Mend-1920s-40s Evening Coat

I can't believe it! I had this entry done A WEEK AGO and I totally forgot to take pictures of it yesterday! Thus, here is my *slightly* late project for the HSF. It's a 1930s green cotton-velveteen coat with brown faux fur collar and cuffs and black velveteen trim!

 But, before I continue, here are the actual 1930s evening coats that gave be the inspiration (and credibility) for this project. I was also greatly inspired by the gorgeous fur-trimmed coats that Helena Bonham-Carter wore as the Queen from "The King's Speech". In fact, as soon as I was finished, I tried the coat on and I called out in the basement to "Dr. Logue." I said, in the most royally British voice I could muster, "And what if my husband were the Duke of York?"

This was a self-drafted pattern and I really took my time on it. I even took the time to copy all the pieces I cut of the fashion material onto some useless fabric so I could recreate it! The coat fits in the challenge because I had to "Make-Do" with it. All the materials were from the stash and-don't tell anyone-the green velveteen was actually a set of curtains not long ago. I also really like it because it's a multi-decade wardrobe item! It's completely acceptable from the 1920s through the 1940s! We couldn't get a full shot (space was a bit cramped), but I'll tell you that the coat extends down to mid-calf length. I could have just buttoned it closed like the ones above, except...I didn't want to look like a hippopotamus that ran through Gramma's clothesline. Thus, the waist had to be cinched!

Fur close up. Don't get dizzy!

The simple elegance of a pearl necklace adds finesse, I think. Thanks, Mamma!

My vintage clutch!

Sorry I didn't use a lint-brush on the trim before it was photographed :P

Just the Facts, Jack! (I couldn't resist)

The Challenge: #1-Make-Do and Mend

Fabric: 4 Yards Cotton-Velveteen, 1 Yard Black Velveteen, 1 Yard Faux Fur

Pattern: Self-Drafted

Year: 1925-1943-ish

Notions: Thread!

How historically accurate is it?: Very!

Hours to complete: 8ish

First worn: Around the house mostly. It makes an excellent robe for the cold Winter mornings!

Total cost: $0.00!!! Hooray for stash fabric (I think my dad is cheering, too ;)