HSF '14: Challenge #5-Bodice

I'm sure rumors have been spreading, but I did, in fact, finish HSF Challenge #4, though it was late and completely different than the original plan :P Yeah, it was kind of a disaster. I had planned on making, at the very least, a chemise and a pair of Georgian stays but I made my stays all wrong and didn't even get to the chemise at all. Soooo, I just ended up replacing the straps on a vintage 1930s cotton slip I had in the ole' mending mountain, a day late and didn't end up posting about it at all. Thus, my plans to create a 1760s bodice and begin building my Georgian wardrobe completely fell apart...

I went onto the fabulous HSF Facebook page and asked my fellow HSF-ers if they knew of a good place to get 1930s patterns. I got overwhelming responses and found some incredible pattern suppliers that I had never heard of! But I ended up buying from Etsy (which I didn't expect, at all). Enter "Mrs. Depew" and her fabulous Etsy shop. Her beautiful French 1930s draft-at-home blouse pattern was exactly what I was looking for! And it was nicely priced, too.

Mrs. Depew's patterns seem extremely confusing at first. The French method of drafting in the 1930s that the pattern uses seemed, at first glance, to be cruel and unusual, but once I got the hang of it, everything made sense. It's quite ingenious, actually.

I constructed a toile first and foremost. That would be the biggest tip I would give to anyone using Mrs. Depew's patterns. Human error accounts for most of the mistakes I made (it was only my first experience with the system) and I'm so glad that I made a mock-up first. That was made of red calico with tiny white polka-dots. I trimmed it with red gingham ribbon. I did finish it completely but it's not my favorite. Marley took some pictures for me but I modeled it with a khaki skirt that is now too big for me (which is both exciting and annoying because now I have to alter it). Also, the shoulders ended up being way too wide and since the back was shorter than the front, I decided to chop the front even and add a waistband. The waistband was too long and small so it really doesn't fit very well right now and it's certainly not flattering so I'll only include one small picture below for the curious ones.

I didn't include the crossing straps

This blouse is one of the first items I've made that I am absolutely in love with! The fit is perfect and I feel so elegant and ladylike in it. I made it out of a $2 vintage, pleated skirt I thrifted. I couldn't even believe that I got almost 2 yards out of it! But I barely had a single scrap left. Use the whole buffalo, says I! 

I did make a few modifications to the pattern. After I had the sleeves basted on, I decided that I wanted the shoulder to be narrower to accomodate my narrowish shoulders. The predominating look of the 1930s was wide shoulders (usually padded), a narrow waist and an overall elongated, graceful figure. I didn't want to lose that essence with the shoulders but I didn't want to look goofy and clownish either. So, I let the drop-shoulder remain but dialed it back a few notches :)

The only other problem I ran into was that again, the back ended up being shorter than the front. I agonized over this problem longer than I should have, but eventually decided to create this little peplum to make up for the 3" difference. And I love the result! Way better than just a plain old straight seam!!! And, instead of drafting a sleeve band, I did a single box pleat and just turned the hem under, so it's still puffy.

In the end, I was so excited, I almost squealed! I love the fitted almost-princess seams that I have dubbed "diamond-seams", because the shape they create is a diamond, in essence. And the crossed bands in the front add such a nice touch of elegance to an otherwise simple and plain design.

I also made the gray skirt, but that was a month or two ago and not challenge-specific.

 The Challenge: #5-Bodice

Fabric: 2 Yards (give or take) Knit Rayon?

Pattern: Mrs. Depew 1049

Year: 1933

Notions: Thread

How historically accurate is it?: 100%!

Hours to complete: 3 or 4ish

First worn: Today's Photoshoot

Total cost: $2 for the skirt and $7.50 for the pattern=$9.50

Crossies!!! ;)

I hope you enjoy it as much as I do! Have a lovely evening!!!

Playing Up Neutrals+Book of the Week

It's my first outfit post! Yaaay!!! I have been inspired by so many lovely modest fashion blogs lately, that I thought it was high time, after 5 years of blogging, I join in the fun and share my style :) And with today's outfit post, I'm also starting a new tradition: BOOK OF THE WEEK! 

But first, the outfit...

When wearing neutrals, it's important to include a splash or two of color to keep from looking drab. Oftentimes, even a tasteful, nicely pressed outfit can take on a frumpy tone if there is lack of color. Today, the basis of my outfit is a beige sweater with a denim-style linen maxi skirt. That's the "cake". The "frosting", or accessories, are a multi-animal-print scarf and a belt. The color to play up all these neutrals comes courtesy of rusty-red wedges (I know they look like flats; the wedge is only about an inch tall). 

 ::Outfit Specs::

:Beige Sweater-Old Navy (Thrifted):

:Linen Maxi Skirt-Saint Tropez West (Thrifted):

:Scarf-Flower Factory:

:Belt-(Thrifted):

:Shoes-Wanted (Thrifted):

And the book of the week is "Mother" by Kathleen Norris. This is one of my favorite books of all time! You may remember that I mentioned it for the Literary Heroine Blog Party . I have read this book three or four times over the past several years and still can't get enough! The sweet redemptive story of this potently pro-life book written in 1911 touches my heart again and again. 

"Mother" recounts several years of Margaret Paget's life in the early 20th Century and her introduction into secular society, away from the small town and large family she grew up in. As the personal secretary of the famous Mrs. Carr-Boldt in New York City, Margaret flourishes, feeling that her talents are finally getting the recognition they deserve. But all around, her morals and beliefs are questioned and everything her Mother taught her is brushed aside by society, considered "old-fashioned notions". They say children are a neusance, husbands should be kept in their place and a woman should not be expected to drudge her existence away as a housewife. Margaret must learn the hard way that though "society" has rejected the Biblical model of womanhood, the principles that her Mother taught her will always stand firm.

I recommend it for girls ages 12 and up. The language in the book is antiquated (which may make it difficult to grasp for younger readers, though it's certainly not Shakespeare!) and the subject matter may be a bit mature for young girls (the question is raised "how many children are too many?" and, as many of the secular, feministic viewpoints of our bereaved culture are discussed, it may confuse young girls). It would be a refreshing and encouraging read for mothers, especially young mothers who are adjusting to their new role in the sphere of the home.

What do you, dear readers, think of my outfit? Have you read "Mother"? Should I continue with "Book of the Week"? Do we really need the color chartreuse? Did you look that word up in the dictionary? Let me know what you think and comment below! Or email me at missmckennaray[at]gmail[dot]com. Have a beautiful day!

Thanks-Christmas Gifts+A Mini-Tutorial

I hope everybody had a lovely Thanksgiving! In my family, we spend Christmas with my Mamma's side of the family and celebrate "Thanks-Christmas" (Christmas celebrations on Thanksgiving) with my Daddy's side of the family. Gratefully, I had time to sew some small gifts for the family. The theme was about the best football team on earth, Ohio State University! You may not agree with me, but please don't post any Michigan nonsense in the comments. Saturday proved our point. Anyway, I took some photos and I have links to any tutorials I used. But, I've found that it's really hard to think of something to sew for young boys. I have 3 cousins, ages 8-15 on my Daddy's side and I couldn't find any tutorials on Pinterest. So, surprisingly, I decided to make my own and the idea that came to me was to make a Minifigure wallet! You can read the tutorial here. But first, a few pictures and helpful tutorials by others...

 

These here, above and below, are the clutch/purses I made for my Grandma and Aunt. I used Beth Huntington's "Pendleton Clutch" tutorial (you can find on eHow here ) I also encourage you to check out her amazing website "The Renegade Seamstress"  (http://chicenvelopements.wordpress.com/ )

For Grandma's Clutch (above), I used the wool from a felted brown vest with plaid cotton for the lining. Sorry it looks a bit lopsided, it's actually not. And for Aunt Amy's Clutch, I used the wool from a reclaimed coat, red polka-dot cotton for the lining and red gingham ribbon for the accents on the front. The tutorial was quick and easy. I will certainly be using it again!

 

I also fashioned 2 Ohio State University ear-warmers for my Aunt and my cousin Hannah. They are made from the comfiest felted sweater and the are so cozy and soft! They are both original designs but easily replicated, so I won't bother with a whole tutorial.

I made these ear-warmers by first measuring around my head and subtracting 5 inches. Then, I cut a rectangle to the measurement and tapered the ends. Now, all that's left is to stitch a button to one end and 3 inches of elastic, folded in half to the other. You can add an applique or a flower or anything you want! But, of course, an Ohio State emblem is the best way to go!

 

 

And, finally, I made my Uncle Steve an Ohio State iPad cover inspired by this one from StyleMingle . It's pretty self-explanatory and worked out really well!

 

 

And I must make one more honorable mention. Although I wasn't able to take a picture before I gave it as a gift, check out Lula Louise's Reversible Shoulder Bag tutorial here.

 

I hope you enjoyed this post! If you liked it or have any questions, comment below or email me at missmckennaray@gmail.com Have a blessed day :)



The Care and Keeping of your Stringed Instrument (Applies to Violin, Viola and Cello)

I have been blessed with some wonderful new music students this week so I made up this checklist for the two who are taking Violin. So, I thought it would be a good idea to share it with others. It's a nice checklist for beginners to keep in their case as a reminder because it seems like a lot to do when you first start. If you are a music teacher, feel free to pass this on to your students. And if you're interested, I can email the original printable document to you (it's 2 pages). Just email me at missmckennaray@gmail.com :)

The Care and Keeping of Your Stringed Instrument

Applies to Violin, Viola and Cello

By McKenna

cherishingmyrole.blogspot.com

Playing Preparation

When you're getting ready to play your Stringed Instrument, be sure to follow the steps below to ensure the safety of your instrument. Remember, a Stringed Instrument is delicate and must be taken care of properly so that it doesn't break or crack. Naming your instrument is never frowned upon. Here are a few things to remember.

1. When you get out your case, be careful that you don't bang it around. Place it gently on a flat surface (like a bench or table), lid facing up, then carefully open the case.
2. Take the bow out of its holder and tighten the screw at the end (twist it to the right or away from you) until it's firm but there's still a slight dip in the wooden or carbon-fiber backbone. Don't forget the rosin!
3.  If playing a Viola or a Violin, take it out of its cozy little nest in the case, attach the shoulder-rest to the belly of the body below the chin-rest with the side that dips down on the right*.
4. The final step before you're ready to play is to tune your Stringed Instrument. There are 2 ways to do this**. You can tune your Stringed Instrument to a piano or use an automatic tuner; that's up to you.

Quick Note Regarding Tuning

For Viola and Cello, the tuning pattern is: D-G-C-A, meaning, that's the order in which you tune each string. The order of strings from Left-Right when you're holding it properly is C-G-D-A***, but this is not the order in which you tune the strings...it's weird, I know. You may use the fine-tuners most of the time for tuning; twisting the screw to the left lowers the sound of the string and twisting it to the right makes the sound higher. Very occasionally, you will need to let out your fine-tuners and use the big tuning pegs to do some close tuning.

 

For Violin, the tuning pattern is: A-D-G-E, meaning, that's the order in which you tune each string. The order of strings from Left-Right when you're holding the Stringed Instrument properly is G-D-A-E****, but this is not the order in which you tune the strings...it's weird, I know. You may use the fine-tuners most of the time for tuning; twisting the screw to the left lowers the sound of the string and twisting it to the right makes the sound higher. Very occasionally, you will need to let out your fine-tuners and use the big tuning pegs to do some close tuning.

 

 

 5.  Congratulations! You're all ready to play. Go for it!

*If you're not sure how you should put the shoulder-rest on, just place it on your left shoulder and the side that dips down to your collar bone (the small side) goes on the right of the belly.

**I'm sure there are more ways to tune your Stringed Instrument but those are the two ways I know of. I suppose you could tune by ear if you had perfect pitch!

 

***The notes on the piano, in reference to the strings for Viola is: The first C below Middle-C, the first G below Middle-C, the first D above Middle-C and the first A above Middle-C

The notes on the piano, in reference to the strings for Cello is: Exactly like Viola above, except an octave lower on every note :)

****The notes on the piano, in reference to the strings is: the first G below Middle-C, the first D above Middle-C, the first A above Middle-C and the second E above Middle-C :)

After You're Finished

There are a few things to do after you're finished with the fun of playing your Stringed Instrument. Be sure to follow these steps. They're almost more important than the steps you took before you played. It keeps your Stringed Instrument safe for storing so it doesn't break or crack or sweat or any number of horrible things!

1. After you're finished playing, place your bow somewhere safe and, if playing Viola or Violin, take the shoulder-rest off your belly...I mean, your Stringed Instrument's belly.* Place it either in the top pocket of the case or upside-down in the small part of the nest where the neck of your Stringed Instrument rests; there should be room there.
2. Next, carefully place your Stringed Instrument in its little nest in the case. Just look how cozy it is! Be sure to secure the velcro over the neck so it doesn't slide around.
3. Don't forget to take a soft, dry cloth and clean the rosin residue off the strings. This is important because it keeps your strings clean so they last longer.
4. Finally, loosen the hair on your bow by twisting the screw to the left (or towards you) and put it back in its holder in the lid of your case. Now all that's left is to zip or buckle up your case and store it in a place where it's not too hot or too cold so it stays comfy.
5. Be consistent in your practice! They say "Practice makes perfect." Well, that's not true. As my Mamma puts it, "Perfect practice makes perfect." Put another way, you can always practice without learning anything. Banging your hands around on the piano can count as practice, but not perfect practice :)

*Well, that was embarrassing...