Resources and Quick Tips for Historical Sewing {Vol. 1}

I've been doing historical sewing for awhile (seven years) and sometimes I wish that I would have had a mentor when I was just starting out. Of course, I had mom and Grandmom to teach me the basics of sewing, but neither of them had sewn a corset before! So, I've been my own trailblazer and that's taught me a lot.

 

Now, I shall endeavor to be a mentor of sorts to those of you who are just starting out on your journey of historical sewing.

I remember picking up a pattern and thinking

 

Where in the world do you find wool these days? Maybe Pa can pick some up when he goes into town for white sugar and chicken feed! Hope he'll bring me some hard candy this time!

 

That's what it felt like, anyway. Thusly, I had to forge my own path and figure things out for myself. Thankfully, we have a lovely new-fangled thing called INTERNET! And that is from where I am writing you this day.

 

This is the first of several articles in which I put out of some of my favorite resources for historical sewing. I'm not going to share links to sites where you gasp, "I can't spend $50/yard on fabric!!!" Hey! I'm on a tight budget, too. Occasionally, you buckle down and save up for the fabric that's going to make your garment perfect and it's totally worth it. But, I'm thinking of you ladies (and guys, I suppose), who just need a little nudge in the right direction. That's not to say that these resources aren't helpful to those seasoned seamstresses, but I have the beginners in mind today. Without further ado...

 

 

Sense and Sensibility Patterns

 

Jennie Chancey's patterns and articles have probably been the single most influential springboard into the hobby that has turned into a source of income (costume design) for me. Even simply reading the pattern notes on the title page of the instructions is a learning experience! Simplicity and McCall's patterns (though sometimes necessary) don't hold a candle to the caliber of design and versatility of Jennie's patterns. I started with her Regency Dress pattern after seeing Pride and Prejudice (2005) for the first time and the rest, as they say, is history.

 

Historicalsewing.com

 

This site is especially for those of you interested in the Victorian Era! Jennifer Rosbrugh's mission is to make historical sewing more accessible and she does a wonderful job. I'm subscribed to the emails and they're fantastic. I could spend hours scrolling through her site and learning. See? I just took a break from writing this post to read through about 5 articles; I am now a smarter person. Be a sponge. Go to historicalsewing.com.

(And I'm going to highlight THIS article. Because it has basically changed my sewing life.)

 

Music

 

This is my personal advice to you. I have about a bazillion Spotify playlists (because I can't afford to buy all those yummy soundtracks). I like to listen to film soundtracks or classical music from the era I'm working in. For example, as I work on a 1912 picnic dress, I will listen to the Miss Potter soundtrack. And if I'm working in the Regency era, well, you know. And French music goes with literally any project (Hugo, anyone?) I would love it if you would follow me! My "Jane Austen and Friends" playlist has some great selections from Regency, Victorian and Edwardian films.

 

 

Pinterest

 

 

This might seem like, "duh, McKenna", but Pinterest is an amazing resource for costumers! Tutorials like THIS one (above) are amazingly useful and they're all over the place! And articles and images galore! For a quick peek, click HERE to go to my historical costuming board. Find and follow other historical costumers and see what they pin, too! It's very encouraging and inspiring.

 

R. Turner Wilcox

 

 

 Any book by R. Turner Wilcox is a goldmine. If you're looking for straight up historical costuming commentary, here's your chance! The value of information contained in her books (which, to buy, most are not expensive at all) is, in fact invaluable. And the drawings are detailed and positively drool-worthy! Go to the library. Get yourself some knowledge! This one of the finest resources I ever have or ever will find.

 

 

That's it for now. Were these resources helpful? Do you have a favorite pattern company or tutorial that you use? A favorite costuming book? Let me know in the comments below. Or, if you have additional questions or just need some encouragement, please don't hesitate to drop me a line at missmckennaray[at]gmail[dot]com. Have a beautiful day, everyone!

 

 



A Few of My Favorite Things {Vol. I}

Sorry for the silence. Life tends to happen and usually, that takes precedence over blogging. I'm going to share with you a few of my favorite things. Things I've always loved and things that I've discovered lately. Fun things, blogs, crafts, etc. I hope you enjoy Volume I of "A Few of my Favorite Things".

 

 

My new blunt bangs!

This isn't an incredible picture, but I like it. You'll be seeing lots of my new do in future posts and in the launch of my new fashion blog

 Empress of Autumn

 

 

It's Not About Staying at Home

I absolutely love this recent message by the beautiful Botkin sisters. It's a convicting and uplifting talk that I would encourage every young lady to listen to (I listened while I was cleaning my room). It's free on their website HERE

 

Not a Care in the Whirl Heels

These GORGEOUS shoes are from Modcloth.

Find them HERE . I'm telling you, I am absolutely in love with them (and I'm dropping a not-so-subtle hint that I'm an 8.5).

 

 

Ulyana Sergeenko

This lovely Russian fashion designer is my new role model and style icon. The way she carries herself and dresses and smiles is the epitome of elegance and grace. (Disclosure: If you look her up, be warned; 90% of her designs are gorgeous, and modest but that other 10% is a bit disturbing, actually. "High Fashion", you know.)

 

 

 

Starlooks' Ultra Olive metallic eye pencil

An amazing eyeliner that came in my November Ipsy Glam Bag. It seems foofy, but it's actually a sensible addition to your makeup collection. Paired with neutral eye shadow, it gently opens and brightens the eye and adds a touch of elegance and panache, especially if you're in a hurry. The pencil is to be purchased HERE. I highly recommend it!

 

 

Lawana Blackwell

I cannot stop reading her books! Mrs. Blackwell is a Christian author whose books I stumbled upon in our church library. Her novels have me captive and I've enjoyed all of them (I've read eight this month!). Her Gresham series is especially heart-warming and absolutely worth the read.

 

 

Star Trek: The Original Series

and

Star Trek: The Next Generation

Specifically, I'm kind of crazy about Lieutenant Commander Data. Brent Spiner is a seriously brilliant actor, not only portraying an android, but often completely different characters when Data's circuits are taken over or he's emulating Sherlock Holmes.

At this point, (Season 3) I'm getting pretty annoyed with Commander Riker's behavior, but I still watch the show, mainly because PATRICK STEWART!

 

 

Sweater Weather!!!

This is seriously the best part of Fall/Winter. Here in Kansas, it's frigid, so I'm busting out my sweater collection...except for the awesome/unfortunate fact that I've lost some weight and now all my yummy sweaters are being passed up to my mom (at least it benefits her). So, I'm going sweater hunting at Goodwill today.

 

That's all I've got. What have been some of your favorite things lately? What do you think of my favorites? Agree? Disagree? On the fence? Drop a comment below (because comments are also one of my favorite things!)

 

First-Timer Lip-Liner (Ipsy Glam Bag: September 2014)

Whaaaaaaaaaaaaaat?!?!

C'mon son!* Who'd have thunk that I would ever wear lipstick? Apparently, the stylists at Ipsy did! 

Ipsy is a makeup and beauty company started by Michelle Phan. For $10 a month, they send you a georgeous, customized "Glam Bag." It's a makeup bag with 5 samples and full-sized beauty products. Based on a beauty quiz you take, they match up products just for you and mostly, it's spot-on. Plus, it comes in a fabulous pink sparkly envelope!

If you're interested in signing up, follow this link and I will get points toward extra products :D
http://www.ipsy.com/r/d2he?sid=ipsypoints&cid=general

Now, I've never had anything against lipstick. It's just that I was born with "natural" color on my kisser. When I went on set to be an extra in a First-Century film, I was asked by the makeup artist if I had any on. When I replied negative, she double-checked ("Are you sure you're not wearing lipstick?"), then went in search of the nearest liquid concealer.

Plus! That shade of lipstick almost matches Counsellor Troi's from Star Trek: The Next Generation!!!

Cosplay on the way!

Here are my reviews pertaining to each product:

Hikari Lipstick
5/5

I applied the lipstick with a brush (I tried freehand at first, but I ended up looking like the Joker).  It went on smoothly and is a very nice Fall color to have on hand.

Be a Bombshell Smooth Criminal Powder
5/5

Okay, so I had to look up what on earth this mysterious powder was, but when I discovered what it was and how to use it, I was thrilled (it's a finishing powder)! As long as you don't use too much, it's absolutely a dream! Just a tiny bit really goes a long way. I'm never leaving home without it again!

Mitchell and Peach Luxury Hand Cream
5/5

This is really luxurious (per the title) and it's nice to put on, especially before bed :)

Nourish Organic Face Cleanser
2/5

I give it two points for being organic. That's about it; the product has this odd smell...kind of musty. Blech!

Pacifica 7 Free Nail Polish
4/5

It's a much more daring color than I would normally wear, but it's quite lovely! Perfect for evening toes and it matches a lot of what I wear!

I was most pleased with last month's Glam Bag. They usually arrive around the middle of the month, so I'll do another review in a couple of weeks. Hope you enjoyed and I think you'll love the Glam Bag if you decide to try it!

*Psych reference.

HSF '14 Challenge #9-Black and White

Happy Mothers' Day!!! In honor of my own dear Mama's favorite item in my Historical Wardrobe-the Caraco Jacket below-I am posting my HSF Challenge #9 entry today :)

Ta-Da! My first ever full Georgian ensemble!!! I've been dreaming of this day since I was 10 years old. If you've been reading my blog for a while (or even a very short time) you've probably guessed that I am a history nerd. You would be correct! I've always loved books and films about history or set in historical times. I read all of the historical American Girl books when I was 8, 9 and 10 but never had much interest in the modern dolls or their stories. What intrigued little McKenna most, poring over the brightly colored catalogues, was the costumes! Felicity's (1774) were my favorite. The gloriously embroidered gowns and aprons, wee hats and fans called to my little heart and, though I didn't know it yet, would set the stage for my historical costuming journey that began several years later. When my Mom and my Grandmom took me by the hand and taught me how to sew.

What I present to you for my favorite HSF challenge so far is a black brocade Caraco Jacket, white Petticoat and Bergére hat decorated in white. As soon as I finished my stays, I wanted to go for something big and significant for my Georgian wardrobe. I already had a chemise, the stays, a fichu and an under-petticoat (for volume) and was ready to grace my unmentionables with a proper ensemble. So, without delay, I turned to Janet Arnolds' "Patterns of Fashion 1: 1660-1860" and selected the Caraco Jacket (it's on page 22, I believe). Out came my gridded cutting mat, swedish tracing paper, a few rulers and a fat pencil. After scaling up the initial pattern from the book, whipping up a toile, doing a fitting (no easy task when it's just you with no mirror) and adjusting the pattern pieces, I was ready to cut out the actual jacket from my fashion fabric. Honestly, it's so worth it! Don't cut into your fashion material until you're absolutely sure that the garmet fits! Toiles are indespensible to any seamstress!!!

In my opinion, the best part of historical sewing is hand-stitching. After doing all the inside seams with my machine, it's nice to find a comfy place with a cup of tea to hand-sew and re-watch favorite shows like "North and South" and "Wives and Daughters". I tacked the box pleats in place, slip-stitched the hem and the neckline and finally tediously whip-stitched 32 individual hooks and eyes over 2 episodes of "The Paradise". I'm definitely going to use this pattern again! And I'm thinking of doing a tutorial with instructions on how to assemble the pattern. What do you think?

Generally, a Caraco is a working woman's coat but making this version out of black brocade turned it into more of a Sunday morning Church service ensemble. It's like my Mother as a garment. Designed to be functional and productive but perfectly beautiful and elegant. My Mama has always placed an emphasis on looking your best, even when it's just your family around to see it. 

 The Bergére is made of an old straw hat I had on hand. I used The Dreamstress' method for turning an old straw hat into a Bergére (see the tutorial HERE). I decorated it with white lace, white paper flowers (found at Michael's on sale) and a white satin ribbon. I have dreamed of having a Bergére of my own since I was very small. I, being the hat connoisseur that I am, think it's the most elegant and tasteful hat design I have come across! It trumps the cloche, in my opinion, and I think very highly of that hat! 

I'm more than pleased with how this jacket turned out and love wearing it! It's such an amazing feeling to have a remnant of history to wear and have on hand. You never know when you'll need a Georgian Caraco Jacket! 

The Facts...

The Challenge: #9-Black and White

Fabric: 3 yds. Black Brocade, 2 yds. White Cotton

Pattern: Janet Arnolds' 1775-85 Caraco Jacket from "Patterns of Fashion 1". No Pattern for Petticoat

Year: 1775-85

Notions: Thread, Hooks and Eyes, Bias Tape

How historically accurate is it?: 90%

Hours to complete: 10-12?

First worn: For Photoshoot 

Total cost: About $15; that was all in the petticoat

HSF '14 Challenge #8-UFOs & PHDs

Good afternoon, lovely readers! It's a stormy day and I have a few minutes over lunch to complete an extremely late post for HSF. I finished the challenge on time, but hadn't had the opportunity to get it photographed until yesterday so please accept my apologies. As our family is in the midst of moving (out West) I don't have much time to write so please try to be content with a picture-heavy post without much elaboration.

This is my first-ever pair of Georgian (1750s-80s) Stays!!! I thought I might have them completed for the HSF Challenge "Under it All" but that was not meant to be, so I saved it for this challenge. Blood, sweat and tears, folks...blood, sweat and tears...one of the hardest projects I've done and one of the most rewarding!!! 

My tecniques were not all historically acurate...the boning consists of plastic zip-ties, almost everything is machine-stitched and instead of actual hand-worked eyelets, I stitched double-fold bias tape down every inch and half-inch to create loops of a sort (I can't claim the idea as my own, though; I saw that on Pinterest) But the important thing is that I achieved the correct shape for the period. That's what stays/corsets are for! "It can look like a dyin' duck!" No one's really going to see it (unless you blog, of course) and as long as the shape is correct, you've made a goal!

Don't kill me, historical sewing purists, but I didn't finish the bottom with bias tape. Life is too short and pinking shears are near at hand. Like I said, no one's going to see it on me except me :)

I'm so pleased with the outcome! It's comfortable to wear and now I can really get going on my Georgian wardrobe. It's kind of blown up overnight, in a way. Less than 2 weeks after I complete my stays, I find myself with 3 Petticoats, a Caraco Jacket and a Bergere Hat! Pictures coming soon, I promise!

NOT a Weeping Angel, thank heaven!

Just The Facts, Ma'am:

The Challenge: #8-UFOs & PHDs

Fabric: 1 yd. Pink Ribbed Satin, 1 yd. Canvas Linen

Pattern: Corsets and Crinolines draft

Year: 1750-8os

Notions: Thread, Zip-Ties, Bias Tape

How historically accurate is it?: Approx. 70%

Hours to complete: 12-ish...who's keeping track?

First worn: Will wear with outfit for HSF Challenge: "Black and White" photoshoot

Total cost: $10 or so...I really busted my budget on those Zip-Ties, didn't I? ;)