HSF '14 Challenge #9-Black and White

Happy Mothers' Day!!! In honor of my own dear Mama's favorite item in my Historical Wardrobe-the Caraco Jacket below-I am posting my HSF Challenge #9 entry today :)

Ta-Da! My first ever full Georgian ensemble!!! I've been dreaming of this day since I was 10 years old. If you've been reading my blog for a while (or even a very short time) you've probably guessed that I am a history nerd. You would be correct! I've always loved books and films about history or set in historical times. I read all of the historical American Girl books when I was 8, 9 and 10 but never had much interest in the modern dolls or their stories. What intrigued little McKenna most, poring over the brightly colored catalogues, was the costumes! Felicity's (1774) were my favorite. The gloriously embroidered gowns and aprons, wee hats and fans called to my little heart and, though I didn't know it yet, would set the stage for my historical costuming journey that began several years later. When my Mom and my Grandmom took me by the hand and taught me how to sew.

What I present to you for my favorite HSF challenge so far is a black brocade Caraco Jacket, white Petticoat and Bergére hat decorated in white. As soon as I finished my stays, I wanted to go for something big and significant for my Georgian wardrobe. I already had a chemise, the stays, a fichu and an under-petticoat (for volume) and was ready to grace my unmentionables with a proper ensemble. So, without delay, I turned to Janet Arnolds' "Patterns of Fashion 1: 1660-1860" and selected the Caraco Jacket (it's on page 22, I believe). Out came my gridded cutting mat, swedish tracing paper, a few rulers and a fat pencil. After scaling up the initial pattern from the book, whipping up a toile, doing a fitting (no easy task when it's just you with no mirror) and adjusting the pattern pieces, I was ready to cut out the actual jacket from my fashion fabric. Honestly, it's so worth it! Don't cut into your fashion material until you're absolutely sure that the garmet fits! Toiles are indespensible to any seamstress!!!

In my opinion, the best part of historical sewing is hand-stitching. After doing all the inside seams with my machine, it's nice to find a comfy place with a cup of tea to hand-sew and re-watch favorite shows like "North and South" and "Wives and Daughters". I tacked the box pleats in place, slip-stitched the hem and the neckline and finally tediously whip-stitched 32 individual hooks and eyes over 2 episodes of "The Paradise". I'm definitely going to use this pattern again! And I'm thinking of doing a tutorial with instructions on how to assemble the pattern. What do you think?

Generally, a Caraco is a working woman's coat but making this version out of black brocade turned it into more of a Sunday morning Church service ensemble. It's like my Mother as a garment. Designed to be functional and productive but perfectly beautiful and elegant. My Mama has always placed an emphasis on looking your best, even when it's just your family around to see it. 

 The Bergére is made of an old straw hat I had on hand. I used The Dreamstress' method for turning an old straw hat into a Bergére (see the tutorial HERE). I decorated it with white lace, white paper flowers (found at Michael's on sale) and a white satin ribbon. I have dreamed of having a Bergére of my own since I was very small. I, being the hat connoisseur that I am, think it's the most elegant and tasteful hat design I have come across! It trumps the cloche, in my opinion, and I think very highly of that hat! 

I'm more than pleased with how this jacket turned out and love wearing it! It's such an amazing feeling to have a remnant of history to wear and have on hand. You never know when you'll need a Georgian Caraco Jacket! 

The Facts...

The Challenge: #9-Black and White

Fabric: 3 yds. Black Brocade, 2 yds. White Cotton

Pattern: Janet Arnolds' 1775-85 Caraco Jacket from "Patterns of Fashion 1". No Pattern for Petticoat

Year: 1775-85

Notions: Thread, Hooks and Eyes, Bias Tape

How historically accurate is it?: 90%

Hours to complete: 10-12?

First worn: For Photoshoot 

Total cost: About $15; that was all in the petticoat

HSF '14 Challenge #8-UFOs & PHDs

Good afternoon, lovely readers! It's a stormy day and I have a few minutes over lunch to complete an extremely late post for HSF. I finished the challenge on time, but hadn't had the opportunity to get it photographed until yesterday so please accept my apologies. As our family is in the midst of moving (out West) I don't have much time to write so please try to be content with a picture-heavy post without much elaboration.

This is my first-ever pair of Georgian (1750s-80s) Stays!!! I thought I might have them completed for the HSF Challenge "Under it All" but that was not meant to be, so I saved it for this challenge. Blood, sweat and tears, folks...blood, sweat and tears...one of the hardest projects I've done and one of the most rewarding!!! 

My tecniques were not all historically acurate...the boning consists of plastic zip-ties, almost everything is machine-stitched and instead of actual hand-worked eyelets, I stitched double-fold bias tape down every inch and half-inch to create loops of a sort (I can't claim the idea as my own, though; I saw that on Pinterest) But the important thing is that I achieved the correct shape for the period. That's what stays/corsets are for! "It can look like a dyin' duck!" No one's really going to see it (unless you blog, of course) and as long as the shape is correct, you've made a goal!

Don't kill me, historical sewing purists, but I didn't finish the bottom with bias tape. Life is too short and pinking shears are near at hand. Like I said, no one's going to see it on me except me :)

I'm so pleased with the outcome! It's comfortable to wear and now I can really get going on my Georgian wardrobe. It's kind of blown up overnight, in a way. Less than 2 weeks after I complete my stays, I find myself with 3 Petticoats, a Caraco Jacket and a Bergere Hat! Pictures coming soon, I promise!

NOT a Weeping Angel, thank heaven!

Just The Facts, Ma'am:

The Challenge: #8-UFOs & PHDs

Fabric: 1 yd. Pink Ribbed Satin, 1 yd. Canvas Linen

Pattern: Corsets and Crinolines draft

Year: 1750-8os

Notions: Thread, Zip-Ties, Bias Tape

How historically accurate is it?: Approx. 70%

Hours to complete: 12-ish...who's keeping track?

First worn: Will wear with outfit for HSF Challenge: "Black and White" photoshoot

Total cost: $10 or so...I really busted my budget on those Zip-Ties, didn't I? ;)

eShakti Dress Review

Pinner-friendly image!

I cannot even begin to express how incredibly excited I was to recieve an invitation to review a garment for eShakti. For those of you who aren't familiar with the company, eShakti is an online women's clothing source that specializes in you. When you purchase garments, you can choose to put in your body measurements and even change the sleeve or skirt length! They carry all concievable sizes of beautiful, vintage-inspired clothing and it's absolutely amazing!

I'll admit, choosing one out of a few hundred swoon-worthy dresses, skirts and blouses was no easy task. But I finally settled on this gorgous navy blue "Fifties-Style Poplin" and I do not regret it! Even if you aren't a seamstress, it's plain to see how well this garment is made. I haven't had the pleasure of wearing poplin before but I absolutely love it! It's a crisp, smooth fabric that rustles when you move. It has such a fine quality and I feel so elegant and classy in it. It is definitely a garment worthy of my new Pearl Necklace Award!

The Pearl Necklace Award is given only to upstanding garments of elegance and class. Only a garment worthy of a pearl necklace recieves this exceptional award and eShakti's "Fifties-Style Poplin Dress" has most definitely earned it! *applause*

Another thing I love about this dress is the waistband. Lovely rows of tucks create a ribbing effect that is so flattering. The bodice has three darts on each side to increase the comfort and fit. As you can see, I did need to wear an under-shirt for modesty but this is less common in eShakti dresses. Many, and I may venture to say, the majority of their garments are very modest. 

Go circle skirt!

And there's an invisible zipper in the side! Easy on, easy off.

It has POCKETS!!! I'm in love!

My sister had a BLAST taking these photos. It's so cute to see her take a picture with her "baby" (a Canon T3i), then flip the screen and giggle (or evil-laugh) over her success. I tell her she can say it out loud then she smirks, never taking her eyes from the screen, and grins, "Oh yeah, I'm awesome!" I am not one to contradict her. If she can make me look decent on camera, she can do anything! Please pop by her photography website  http://marleyrosenphotography.blogspot.com/

I would definitely encourage you to check out eShakti's amazing selection of gorgeous clothing and experience their great service. You won't regret it.

http://eshakti.com/

Have a beautiful day, lovely readers!

Trim Healthy Waffles-Original Recipe

"Are you a fan of delicious flavor?"

~Shawn Spencer

Our family has just discovered the most amazing healthy living book EVER!!! 

Trim Healthy Mama (THM for short) has been such a blessing to our family! Pearl and Serene (2 Christian sisters from Australia) explain how to eat the way God created our bodies to and to have an overall healthy lifestyle. I'll be doing a book review shortly :) 

These are my Trim Healthy Mama Waffles! After a failed attempt to find one online or in the book, I decided to find and alter a Paleo recipe and give it a whirl. I found one HERE and changed almost everything in it to create the most delicious, decadent waffles you've ever tasted!!! For our family of 10, I do 2 double batches of this batter to feed us all but most likely, you won't need as much so I trimmed it down.

Please, feel free to pin this image. Clicking the image opens this page so everyone can make waffles!

The key to fluffy deliciousness is to whip the egg whites till they're stiff and don't slip around in the bowl...almost like meringues...exactly like meringues...they're meringues (just kidding)

These waffles fall into the "S" category because they utelize whole eggs, almond flour and butter. So slather on the buttah, Mama! You may use all almond flour but the combo of almond and flax makes it super fluffy and smooth!!! The kids can put syrup or honey on theirs but for you, Mama, butter and Polaner's All-Fruit Jelly are both acceptable and encouraged. You could even make a blueberry sauce with blueberries, stevia and a dash of salt and vanilla (yum!)

I hope you'll try the recipe and comment on your success and advice! I make these waffles at least once and sometimes twice a week, we love them so much! I hope you enjoy :)

Trim Healthy Waffles {S}

By McKenna Rosen

Makes Approx. 12 Waffles

Ingredients

6 Egg Yolks

6 Egg Whites

1/4 C. Unsweetened Almond Milk

1/2 C. Almond Flour

1/2 C. Flax Flour

1/2 t. Salt

1/4 C. Melted Butter

2 t. Vanilla

2 T. Truvia

1 T. Cinnamon

1 t. Nutmeg

Bacon Grease or Coconut Oil (for greasing the iron)

Optional: 1 C. Blueberries

Instructions
1. Preheat Waffle Iron
2. Whisk Egg Yolks and Milk
3. Add Almond+Flax Flour and Salt. Whisk.
4. Add Melted Butter. Whisk.
5. Add Vanilla, Stevia, Cinnamon and Nutmeg (Optional Blueberries). Whisk.
6. Whisk Egg Whites until they form stiff peaks. (This is best done in a KitchenAid or with a hand-held mixer)

7. Fold Egg Whites into batter in 3 parts.

This is what the batter looks like after the egg whites have been added.

8. Scoop 1/3 c. Batter into preheated, greased iron.
9. Cook until golden-brown and scrumptious! Enjoy!

Help spread the word about my Waffles and, who knows? Maybe Pearl and Serene will start making it for their families!

HSF '14 Challenge #7-Tops and Toes

Good day, lovely readers! I'm afraid I'm 2 days late with posting my hat but I did finish it before midnight on the 15th! And I also completed Challenge #6 but haven't had time to photograph it. Oops!

 Frankly, when I heard about the challenge, I freaked out a tiny bit inside. As well as I do as a designer and a seamstress, I am terrible at trimming!!! Ribbons, braid, buttons, I experience a mental block and sometimes a rash appears on the back of my neck (not kidding!) This whole challenge basically centers around being able to trim hats or stockings, so after a brief moment with a paper bag and some rash cream for my neck, I decided to make a simple 19th Century nightcap. Easy. Breathe, McKenna!

Blessedly, I have a gorgeous and talented Mother who is quite the expert with trims and such and assured me that I did not need to heavily trim my simple little nightcap :) As you can see, I hand-stitched a bit of tatted lace onto the brim and it makes it simple and elegant, I think. No need for anything fancy or complicated. But now I am determined to study the art of trim and ribbons and overcome my unfounded fears!

As you see, I also decided to make a Fichu (the historical equivalent of a cami for modesty) and a new Bodiced Petticoat (yay!) I made the Petticoat to go with a Regency round-gown made of a lightweight, see-through cotton I recently finished (pictures coming soon). I had my talented photographer sister take a few pictures for me and set it up as if I had gotten up in the middle of the night. Unfortunately, I was unable to locate our matches or it would have been truly picturesque (despite the lighswitches and outlets :P)

I love the layers! Chemise, Stays, Fichu and Petticoat plus Pashmina shawl equals happiness anc comfort!

Closeup of the Fichu

I do need to do a "rip'n'stitch" in order to fix the gathers on the bodice of my petticoat but since it's not normally seen, it doesn't matter!

The Challenge: #7-Tops and Toes

Fabric: 1/4 yard White Cotton

Pattern: Tam from Simplicity 3623 (Out of Print)

Year: 1700-1910 (Versatility! Yay!)

Notions: 1/2 Yard Tatted Lace, Thread

How historically accurate is it?: 90% 1/2 Machine-stitched

Hours to complete: 1

First worn: For Photoshoot yesterday

Total cost: $0 It's stash-tastic!

A Very Quick Update

My goodness, how time does get away! One week you're on a roll with blog posts in advance and feeling like the internet's ultimate blogger and the next two, you barely touch the 'ole laptop at all (which is mainly because your brother has commandeered it to edit a short film). Anyway, just to let you know, I did complete HSF Challenge #6 {Fairytale} but haven't had time to post pics. And I've decided to put aside the historical sewing for a short time (don't worry, I'll still make the challenges, they just won't be very elaborate). I am putting that aside for the more noble pursuit of clothing my younger sisters :) It'll be nice to take a break from the difficult projects and focus on quick 'n' easy little dresses and bows and skirts and capris. As soon as I have a few more items made, I'll do a Spring style post about my sisters. And don't worry, another outfit post is coming and I haven't forgotten Book of the Week!

Have a lovely day, readers!